Friday, April 15, 2005

Simplicity at 26 Seats

I’ve wanted to eat at 26 Seats (168 Ave. B bw 10 & 11th) for a long time, but I always forgot that it existed. What a mistake. 26 Seats is unforgettable because it serves simple, hearty French dishes at reasonable prices. You have to make a reservation because it’s a tiny space – literally 26 seats. We started off with the free hot bread and then ordered delicious steamed mussels with garlic, cooked just right and served in a bowl. We used the bread to soak up the remaining juice, which was like a light garlic butter soup with a hint of the sea. I ordered the duck confit with mash potatoes, and Ted had the sea bass with corn cake. Nothing fancy, just simple staples you’d find on most bistro menus. But 26 Seats does them so well. The duck was cooked until fork tender, no gaminess or greasiness in sight, served with perfect mash potatoes. The ratio of potato to cream to butter was well, perfect. Ted’s fish was great as well, flaky, but not dry, light and delicious, and served over a bed of fresh greens. My one tiny complaint – and it’s not really a complaint, more a comment (maybe I shouldn’t even mention it) – was that our food and plates were really, really hot. But at least the food wasn’t overcooked because of it. They must keep the food in the warmer until ready to serve, then they throw the greens on before it goes out. We were in a kung fu hustle to get to the movies, so we grabbed dessert at Something Sweet (1st Ave and 10th Street). Almond sticks and a puff pastry with cream and apple. Total cost $2. It was a perfect ending to a perfect meal.

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